Should you OXYGENATE your skin????

I noticed products that "oxygenate" the skin have become very popular recently. The PR surrounding these is very good and makes us believe that adding oxygen or oxygenating ingredients to our skin care products will do wonders for our skins. Will it????

We all know the importance of oxygene to, well, stay alive. The HYPE surronding these products feeds on our fear of polution and dull looking skin. Your skin looks great when you go away from the city, hiking in the mountains or having long walks on beautifull beaches, so surely the diffrence is in the quality of air and amount of oxygen your body is inhaling? But the breathing is a very complex process, especially at cellular level, so is it really just as easy to slap on a cream to have the same effect?

Sadly NO! Even worse, oxygenating from topical cream application will make your skin suffer!

Let's think about one of the oldest truths about skincare: free radicals are our enemy, hence antioxidant ingredients to combat them.
Let me start with explaining what are free radicals. If you look at a structure of an atom it is a centre build of particles called protons and neutrons. They are surrounded by pairs of electrons. Free radical will an atom (or group of atoms) where there is one electron missing. Now for the damaging effect: the lonely electron will look for a friend that he could be paired with, and when he finds him he will steal him! And so a different electron becomes unpaired and the domino effect continues...There is an abundant amount of research concerning free radical damage on our bodies. The free radical theory is not only concerned with superoxide (O2-) but also with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and hydroxide (OH-). Yet there's NO reliable research showing that applying any of the above ingredients to your skin will do it any good. Infact, as you can see, it's quite the opposite.

There are two types of products they claim to oxygenate the skin.
1st - ones containing oxygen or hydrogen peroxide. You'll know now to stay well away from these.
2nd - ones that claim to "increase cellular respiration". there is small amount of research showing that some cosmetic ingredients, like poly phenols, can boost cells respiration. That research refers to in-vitro studies, rather than in-vivo testing on living skin. There's no harm in using these products, but you just can't know if there's any benefit from it either.

Bottom line is that you should make sure that your skincare products contain powerful antioxidants, rather than bother about oxygenation.

Liz Earle sheer make up review and swatches

I ordered samples of Liz Earles sheer skin tint In my little beauty box from latest in beauty. I tried them all for a few times and here's the promised review. Yep, I have tried ALL of the colours without realising.... I read the colour on one of the samples and after assuming that all of them would be the same(I received 3) I opened one of the sachets and slapped the product on...you can imagine my surprise at colour no1 BARE being about 5 shades to dark for me. Still, determined to test the stuff, I just blended it over my neck and ears. It took my morning brain about 15mins to think to check other sachets :)

In the end I discovered I got sent a sample of three of the colours the sheer tint comes in:
01 Bare
02 Beige
03 Beach

What they say:
The perfect way to enhance your skin. Our rich and creamy, yet lightweight formula leaves all skin types looking naturally dewy, even and radiant. With mineral UV protection SPF15, it’s enriched with our own blend of natural source vitamin E, borage and avocado, specially selected to work in harmony with our skincare range.

My thoughts

Firstly, they smell awfull! A bit like mix of clay and stale oil (yuck!). Once you get over it, the product is actually quite nice. I used Real Techniques Buffing Brush and it blends very easily. You don't need much product to. A sample size of 2ml was enough for about 3 applications. I had a fruit acid peel done recently and my skin has been flaking a little, but this felt moisturising and evened out my skin tone without accentuating the flakiness. Very light, sheer coverage, for those with very dry skin. I found that as my skin got less dry, the skin tint was just to shiny. Not even dewy, as the product after few hours on the skin turned a bit grayish...definitely a no-go for those who like mat finish or those with oily skin.

Ingredients:
Aqua (water), Cyclopentasiloxane, C12-15 Alkyl benzoate, Zinc oxide, Titanium dioxide, Sorbitol, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, Isononyl isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, Talc, Disteardimonium hectorite, Sodium chloride, Squalane, Borago officinalis (borage) seed oil, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Propylene glycol, Alumina, Aluminum stearate, Silica, Isostearic acid, Stearic acid, Aluminum hydroxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Sodium dehydroacetate, Methicone, Tocopherol (vitamin E), Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Methylparaben, +/- CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (iron oxides), CI77492 (iron oxides), CI77499 (iron oxides).

Good ingredients with physical sunscreens, silica will give the makeup airbrushed finish and borage and avocado oils for nourishment. It may be a concern to some, that although Liz Earle claims to use all natural and best ingredients available, they still rely on parabens as preservatives.

Bottom line: If you can get over the smell, this is a nice tinted moisturiser option for those with dry skin.

RRP £21 for 40ml

Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser review

I am o bit obsessed with cleansing (see my post about importance of cleansing: http://justinabb.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/cleansing-first-step-to-beautiful-skin.html), so I always look to try new cleansers. Liz Earles' Cleanse and Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser is one of those cult products, that a lot of my clients seem to be using. I was very happy to see it as a gift with travel version of Aprils red magazine.

You get 30ml of the Cleanse and Polish with Muslin cloth (worth £5.50) and instructions on how to use it.

What they say:

"We only make one cleanser because this formulation is the ultimate in concentrated yet gentle cleansing power and works on every age and skin type.

Our plant based cleanser has a two-phase action, phase one is the cleansing. Free from mineral oil, it has a rich and creamy texture and swiftly removes all traces of face and eye make up, even stubborn mascara.

Phase two is the polishing. Polish off the cream using the pure muslin cloth to gently dislodge dead skin cells and help reveal clean, soft and radiant skin.

Naturally active ingredients include eucalyptus and cocoa butter for smoother, clearer skin."


My thoughts:
Beautifully creamy, works well at dissolving makeup, including waterproof liner and mascara. The product has almost same texture as Ponds' Cold Cream Cleanser. It feels very rich and doesn't "melt" on contact with warm skin, like most of these types of cleansers do, but stays in a thick cream form. If I massaged it to vigorously, or left too long on the face, I could feel a slight tingling sensation (hello eucalyptus!), so I would recommend to remove the product quite quickly, as it may lead to irritation. It did a great job at melting away my heavy eye makeup, but I preferred to wipe it away with damp cotton pads rather than muslin cloth. This way you won't stain your cloth and it feels much more gentle on the delicate eye area.

Ingredients:
Unlike the other cream cleansers, which are mostly just oil based, cleanse and polish lists water as the first ingredient. Being a water/oil emulsion it would explain why it stays stable as a cream and doesn't "melt". Apart from water, it is mostly cocoa seed extract, glycerin and beeswax. Disappointingly, it contains some irritating plant extracts like hops, eucalyptus and rosemary.

Bottom line:
I liked using it, but will avoid reaching for it everyday to prevent giving my skin irritation. I will keep it as my go to product when wearing a lot of heavy make up, as it did a great job at taking it of.

Latest in Beauty - My Little Beauty Box

Being  a Beauty Geek, I love testing new products, so I was very happy to discover www.latestinbeauty.com. It's a great website, that gives you a chance to "try before you buy" various cosmetics. I'm a GLOSSYBOX subscriber and like the element of surprise and not knowing what my box will contain. although great, it very often happens that I like and use only 2 or 3 products, out of the 5 I get. With Latest in Beauty you always know what products you'll be getting and have three different ordering options.

THEMED BOXES - A selection of luxury samples in limited edition themed boxes. Rather than having to subscribe and be charged via Direct Debit, you will get an e-mail alert about the latest edition of the box. You can than check if you like it and buy it.

BUILD YOUR OWN - You can pick and choose from different luxury samples and travel size products to build your own box.

LITTLE BEAUTY BOX - Gives you a selection of samples in three categories. You can choose one sample from each group. You pay by sending a text that costs £1.50 and entering the code received online.

   It took just two days for my little box to arrive, and here's what I've chosen:

SKIN DOCTORS COSMECEUTICALS GAMMA HYDROXY SKIN RESURFACING CREAM (2x3ml)

I have high hopes for this cream. With glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids to resurface and smooth the skin and bearberry extract and vitamin C to lighten and even out complexion, it sound like holy grail of face creams for me :)

BURT'S BEES THERAPEUTIC BATH CRYSTALS (44g)

LIZ EARLE SHEER SKIN TINT - (3x2ml, BARE 01; BEIGE 02; BEACH 03)

This tinted moisturiser won Grazia Beauty Award 2011 and Red magazine Best of Beauty 2012. Will be interesting to try it and compare it with others. I will do a separate post on that with colour swatches.

What's in my Eco GLOSSY BOX April 2012

It has been a long wait for this months GLOSSYBOX, but definitely worth it!

Celebrating the fact that April is an earth month, 

the special edition box is 100% biodegradable, 

containing all natural, ethical goodies.

I'm usually not that keen on "organic" beauty products, 

so it will be interesting to try them.

 I found with GLOSSYBOX, that the limited edition boxes contain better, more exciting products.

 FIGS & ROUGE lip balm (RRP £3.29)  

The packaging on this one is so cute! Lovely soft, light lip balm. Certified organic by the Soil Association. Petroleum free, beeswax and sunflower oil based with nourishing Shea butter. Unfortunately, it also contains potent skin irritants like peppermint, limonene and linalool. I could feel a slight tingling sensation when applied it. This might be problematic if you use it on broken skin, i.e.: chapped lips, so the idea of having those irritating ingredients in supposedly soothing product defeats the purpose. As for tea tree...great on zits, not much benefit for the lip area. All that said, I will probably still use the product, because I just cant imagine putting that beautiful tin away.

MONUspa hand and nail cream (RRP £25.95)

Another full size product! Good hand cream that absorbs quickly, without leaving greasy residue on the skin, but making it feel soft and hydrated. I found the smell a bit overwhelming, but if you like lavender you might enjoy it. I cannot find an ingredient list for the product, so can't really comment on those.

 CAUDALIE Vinosource SOS Thirst-Quenching Serum (RRP £29.00 for 30ml)

I think I'm the most excited about trying this one. I got a very generous 10ml sample of this hydrating serum. I went to the GLOSSYBOX VIP evening with Caudalie and I was hoping that I'll get some of their products in my box. The idea of having a cosmetic product made from grapes from french vineyard is very appealing :) It contains grape extracts that have been proven to be very potent antioxidants.

 PHILIP B. Styling gel (RRP £13 for 178ml)

I'm not that keen on this one, as I don't really use much hair styling products. Will let my husband test it :)

 INIKA Certified organic lip liner 

in 03 Sugar Plum (RRP £11.75)

This lip liner is in a lovely rich coppery red colour with plum undertones.

Overall a great selection of products this month. 

What did you get in yours?

Summer nail polishes - AVON nailwear pro - review and swatches

With the weather being so horrible outside recently, I felt like cheering myself up and painted my nails with these two lovely, summery colours from AVON.

The nail polishes are from the AVON Nailwear Pro range.
The Pink - Fuchsia Fun - is a beautiful bright shimmery shade with tiny particles of glitter, which give it slight pearlized look.
The Blue - Aqua Fantasy - a gorgeous light turquoise mat colour.
The polishes have quite big flat brushes, so are very easy to apply. I found that, like with most colour varnishes, you need two coats for the perfect coverage and even colour pay off. I don't know about the staying power, as due to my job, I never wear my nail polish for longer than maximum two days on weekends, so please comment below what you think about it. They are an absolute bargain at £6, and with AVON often doing offers on these, you could get for as low as £3!

I've got my hands ready for summer, now all I need is a bit of sunshine :)

Philip Kingsley ELASTICIZER - best hair treatment ever!

I have a thick, straight hair that doesn't require much maintenance, so I never really cared much about hair care products I used. Not until I had some highlights done for my wedding last year, that was... I loved being blond, but my hair was like straw - dry, damaged with split ends. I was considering going back to my usual dark brown...and then I discovered the Elasticizer!

 

What they say

"Originally created specifically for Audrey Hepburn, this multi award winning pre-shampoo treatment delivers elasticity, bounce and shine to hair. Also provides UV protection even after washing, helping prolong the life of colour treatments. Visible results from one application that improves with continued use. Fragrance free."

My experience 

Well, if it's good enough for Audrey, it's good enough for me! I got a small 40ml tube of Elasticizer in October Glossy Box. I was a bit sceptical before trying it -  how good can a conditioner be? The product has a lot thicker, almost rubbery consistency, very different to your normal hair masques. I followed the packaging instructions - massaged it in sections into damp hair, left under a warm towel, rinsed off - et voilà! Healthy, shiny, smooth hair! I couldn't believe it.

Since then, I've put it to the ultimate test. I used it before going on my honeymoon in Thailand. Because of luggage restrictions I didn't take any of my usual hair products and decided I'll just use whatever there will be available in the hotels. The effects of Elasticizer lasted throughout my holidays! Sunbathing, chlorine, sea water - my hair stayed shiny and soft. 

Bottom line

I could not recommend it enough! Absolutely amazing hair treatment.

You can get it on Philip Kingsley website. They do a very nice 20ml trial size for only £3.70. If you do decide, that you love it as much as I do, Elasticizer comes in various sizes. It is quite pricey, so look out for it on QVC where you can find it cheaper.

Meeting Sam Chapman from Pixiwoo :)

I am a huge fan of Pixiwoo and have been addicted to their make up tutorials for almost three years now. I was really excited, when I found out that Sam will be in London. On Friday I finished work early and made my way to Boots in Oxford street.

Sam was promoting her Real Techniques brushes, that launched into Boots last month. It was amazing to see her in action: doing make up and sharing tips and tricks of the trade.

 

On the day, with purchase of any of Real Techniques brushes, they were giving away a make up brush organiser. I already own most of brushes (and LOVE them!), but I added a fab Blush Brush to my collection.

 A leaflet singed by the lovely Sam :)

CLARISONIC - my skincare gadget hero

    I purchased my Clarisonic Pro at a Professional Beauty Exhibition 2 years ago and never looked back. Among all the beauty gadgets circulating the market at the moment, Clarisonic is definitely (in my humble opinion) worth investing into.

    
How does it work?

The Clarisonics' cleansing action is based on two mechanisms.
1) The first, no-brainer cleansing mechanism, is a scrubbing action of the brushes' bristles against the skins surface.
2) The second cleansing action can reach beyond where the bristles of the brush actually touch. The brush head oscillates at more than 300 times per second, resulting in something called "dynamic fluid activity". The high speed brushing action disturbs the fluids around the brush (hence the need to keep your brush and skin wet) creating waves of pressure and tiny air bubbles that are propelled onto the skins surface giving you a better, more thorough cleanse.  
   The sonic technology of the brush is the same as in the Sonicare toothbrush. In fact, the management team of company that invented Clarisonic, is the same one that invented the Sonicare.
  
 My Experience
 
    This clever brush changed my skin dramatically. Since using it, it's a lot clearer, with nowhere as many breakouts as before. If I do get an odd spot, it heals a lot quicker and doesn't leave a nasty, red or pigmented mark. My pores are also a lot less visible and overall the skin looks more radiant. I should add, that I have not changed any of my skincare products, so it's definitely Clarisonic, that is making the difference. It's really easy to use, with different speed and time settings. I use mine on medium speed for 1 minute in the evenings.  It came with a few products, that I didn't like, so I just use it with my regular cleanser. I also found, that you get a much better results if you make sure that the brush, as well as your skin, are very wet (making the most of the sonic action). Ideally I'd recommend to use it in the shower.

The Confusion

    I have read some confusing research regarding the Sonic cleansing action. There are some confirming that it works (http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12834500) and some proving the opposite (http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1875-595X.2004.tb00300.x/abstract;jsessionid=486E74695C5A5EA00DC03D67C19C3014.d02t01). Like I said, I feel that Clarisonic improved my skin, regardless whether the sonic part of its cleansing action works or not. I'm a huge fan and I highly recommend it. 






     The Clarisonic Pro (Plus) that I own costs £179 at SpaceNK. You can also get the Classic -  £155, or the new cool and colourful Mia for £120.I know that it may sound pricey, but it's definitely worth investing into. You can look out for sales and promotions on QVC or www.buyapowa.com
   

CLEANSING - the first step to beautiful skin

   I decided to write about the importance of cleansing, because in my job I often come across people that don't cleanse properly or skip the evening cleanse altogether. Shocking! Especially, if you're investing your time and money to have a facial, effects of which will be destroyed within days, simply by skipping this basic step in your home care routine. Many skin problems, i.e.: congestion, spots, irritation, puffiness and dark circles around the eyes, could be avoided by just cleansing properly. I think it is THE most important, basic step to have beautiful, healthy, glowing complexion. Using creams (however good or expensive) and having facials is redundant if you don't cleanse.

Excuses???

I have heard then all:

- ....I don't wear make-up (what about sebum, dust and dirt?)

- ....I am to tired to do it (That's just being lazy. Keep a pack of cleansing wipes by the bed for those late nights.)

- ....I forget (?!)

- ....I don't need it, my skin looks OK without it. (But for how long will it stay like this?)

It is really simple and doesn't take long, but the benefits will be worth those extra 5 minutes of your time!

How to cleanse?

Regardless of skin type, you should always GENTLY cleanse. Look for water-soluble cleansers. Ask for samples at beauty counters. Good products should be able to remove your make-up (even most of eye make-up) without either leaving a greasy residue nor making your skin feel tight and dry. If you wear make-up I recommend milk/cream type cleansers. Always start with applying the product onto a dry skin and massaging gently over the face, eyes and neck to dissolve make-up. Rinse with water and repeat the process. I do think, that you get better results and ensure you get every last bit of make-up and dirt off, when you cleanse twice. I am a big fan of always using water to rinse your skin. The ONLY time I would recommend using cleansing wipes is when you're travelling or get home very late from a night out. I don't believe you need to spend a lot of money on a cleanser. Considering that it is rinsed of the skin pretty quickly, there's no need for it to contain fancy and expensive ingredients.

Cleansing myths

There are some myths and misconceptions about cleansing, i.e.:

- deep cleansing - there's no such thing as being able to deep cleanse your skin. You can't open and get inside the pores to clean them. 

- squeaky clean skin - there is nothing worse than cleansing your skin to the point of being "squeaky clean". The tight feeling that you might get, is due to the product being to aggressive and drying the skin out. It will not reduce the amount of sebum your skin produces.

- sensitive skin can't use water - I come across sensitive skins with lots of blackheads, congestion and uneven texture, purely because of not using water to rinse when cleansing. Massage appropriate cleanser gently using your fingertips, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, than blot the skin dry using soft, clean face towel. The only time when water can be problematic is when it's too hot.

Ingredients and products to avoid

- Bar soaps and bar cleansers. Regardless of manufacturers advice, that they are safe to use on the face. The ingredients in those products, that make them a "bar" form, can clog pores and leave residue that will make your skin look dull.

- Over-stripping and irritating ingredients, i.e.: sodium lauryl sulfate (not be confused with sodium laureth sulfate). Over-stripping is easy to notice, as the product will make your skin feel tight and dry.

- Irritating ingredients. Most of the time they are easy to find, as the products will be advertised to be cooling, refreshing, deep cleansing or having tingling sensation. These are:

* Eucalyptus

* Menthol

* Lavender

* Mint

* Peppermint

 Such a simple thing, but so much to say :) I will write a separate post about my favourite cleansers and cleansing the eye area.

Eve Lom Cleanser review and alternatives

In my work I very often come across clients using this "cult cleanser". I decided to try it for myself and see what the fuss was about. 

 

Eve Lom Claims:

With a powerful blend of Egyptian chamomile, hops, clove and eucalyptus oil, together with cocoa butter the Eve Lom Cleanser cleanses, tones, exfoliates all in one. Even the most stubborn make-up and eye make-up will be removed.
The specially woven muslin cloth (100% cotton) is used with the Cleanser to improve skin circulation while cleansing and exfoliating the skin in minutes.
The result is clean, perfectly balanced skin and a radiant complexion.
Suitable for all skin types.

My thoughts:

Price

Firstly, the price is shocking! I bought a 50ml size for £30 at Space NK. I only decided to get it because I had some gift vouchers. I would NEVER spend so much on a cleanser, product that you apply just to wash it off a minute later, so your money is literally going straight down the drain.

Smell

It has a very characteristic scent, mostly of clove essential oil. It reminds me of a dental surgery smell, not a nice association, when you're trying to unwind after a stressful day.

Texture and how to use

Rich and creamy with slightly grainy texture, that melts on contact with the skin. The product comes with a muslin cloth that is great at removing the cleanser from the skin and providing light exfoliation. It felt lovely on the face, but I had to use damp cotton pads around eye area, as it felt a bit to scratchy. According to Eve Lom instructions you should soak the cloth in hot (!) water and press onto face and neck (repeat three times), than soak the cloth in cool water and press again. This process is supposed to boost blood circulation. My advice is to just use warm water, rather than hot/cool to avoid causing unnecessary redness. As for boosting circulation - just make sure that you take your time massaging the product into the skin.

Packaging

The cleanser comes in  simple white plastic pot, not very luxurious, considering the price.

Ingredients

I was hoping that the ingredients would be the ones to justify the price tag, so I was very disappointed that it mostly consists of very cheap, basic ingredients: mineral oil, cetearyl alcohol and lanolin. That's not to say that they are bad for you. Contrary to popular belief, mineral oil and lanolin are the two of the most effective moisturising ingredients available. They are only problematic if you have oily skin, with lanolin being know to cause comedones. And sadly, it doesn't get any better after that. Apart from soothing antioxidant chamomile, it contains irritating clove and eucalyptus oils and a mixture of preservatives. The last two ingredients, although in small amounts, are the two most worrying. Eugenol has been shown to cause cell death and for that reason is being researched as a treatment for skin cancer (The Journal of Biological Chemistry 2005 Feb 18;280(7):5812-9. Epub 2004 Dec 1.).

  

Although it does a great job at removing even waterprooof make up, there's just to many negatives to recommend this cleanser to anyone.

There are two products that I tried in the past, that are quite similar in terms of texture, performance and use.

Luxurios option:

ESPA Nourishing Cleansing Balm 

Being a luxurios dupe, this is still very expensive for a cleanser (£45 for 60grams, £14.50 for 13grams). I found the packaging, texture and smell far more superior than the Eve Lom Cleanser. It's not without it's negatives, containing irritatins, like Citral, Citronellol and Geraniol.

  

Second, budget dupe:

                   POND'S Cold Cream Cleanser
Cold Cream Cleanser has been a classic beauty essential for over 100 years. It's a bargin at £4.49 for 50ml. Just as effective at removing waterproof make up as the more expensive products. It doesn't come with muslin cloth, so you would need to buy it seperately or use a face towel to remove it. Similarly to the product above it contains some irritating essential oils.

Benefit Hello Flawless Oxygen WOW SPF25 PA+++ Brightening Makeup Freebie

!!! Freebie Alert !!!

A 7 day supply of the new foundation from Benefit available now @ Boots to advantage points card holders. Just pop your card in one of the machines they have in stores and search through special offers, print voucher and get your 5ml sample at Benefit counter.

According to Benefit this new oil-free brightening liquid foundation provides light to medium coverage for a natural, luminous and healthy looking complexion. The product has SPF25, so it's great for using every day. The high amount of Titanium Dioxide might be problematic if you will be using flash photography, so wouldn't recommend it for party's and nights out.

Got mine in "cheers to me" Champagne. I'm normally a NW20 in MAC, and this seems quite a bit darker with yellow undertone (see picture: Mac on top, Benefit-bottom). I used Real Techniques stippling brush to apply it. It gives lovely, sheer, semi-matt natural finish. I like foundations with slightly more coverage so had to do a fair bit of concealing on the odd spots and imperfections.

Benefit claim that this foundation helps to boost cellular respiration, but none of the ingredients have the research behind them to confirm that claim. Apart from small amounts of vitamins C and E there's nothing in the product in terms of skincare ingredients.

Nonetheless, this is a fabulous light foundation for normal/combination and oily skin for the summer.

Available from Benefit website and stores. Comes in 9 shades. RRP £24.50